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TimG45 ✭✭✭

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TimG45
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  • Re: First router/table purchase...need advice

    In a table, you want at least a 2¼ HP motor. Stay with a name brand. Some of the off brands have run-out issues. I had a HF trim router I used for while that routed a .168" groove with a .125 (1/8") bit.
    A fixed base router will serve you better. With some of the name brands, you can purchase the plunge base later. I bought the Dewalt DW618PK, which included both the fixed and plunge bases. I rarely use the plunge base, and even bought a 2nd fixed base so I didn't have to remove the one that came with it from the table, especially when using my dovetail jig or doing inlay work.
    Definitely go with a router that has ½" capabilities. Most with ½" collets include either a ¼" collet or an adapter to convert the ½" collet to ¼". Some of the facing bits, door bits and large diameter bits are only available with ½" shafts.
    For a router, I'd recommend the Dewalt DW618, the Bosch 1617 or the Porter Cable 890 series. All three share the same mounting pattern and most accessories are designed to fit (the Porter Cable seems to be the standard). All three also come in a kit form that includes both the plunge and fixed bases. All three also have a "mini" version (Dewalt DW611, Bosch Colt & Porter Cable 450) that have controls & adjustments that mirror their larger brethren.
    As for a table, the best bet is to build your own. It can be as simple as a piece of plywood with the appropriate holes that you can clamp to your work bench. You can also buy a mounting plate that will drop into a cutout for it. The primary thing is that it is flat and that your work will slide smoothly past the bit. You can also add things as you go - a fence, miter gage slot, dust collection, etc. The table I bought is sitting upstairs in my shop collecting dust. I ended up building a router table into one wing of my table saw. I have added a couple of fences (one based on the original Incra positioning jig, the other with a split fence that can be used for edge jointing), a miter track into which I can mount feather boards and different jigs.
    Happy hunting!
  • Re: Snowmen ornaments

    You're welcome @buddystacy. I'm going crazy trying to keep up with the demand for them. I'm hoping to take at least a dozen to a craft show in less than 2 weeks.
    I need to figure out how to chuck up the craft sticks to use those instead of the padauk.
  • Gun display box for a friend.

    I've wanted to do this for some time, and finally got everything together to do so. I used solid ash with book matched top and bottom panels and finger joints for the carcase corners. I used a water based grain filler on the outside of the box, then finished with 7 coats of clear lacquer. I wish I'd have thought to fill the grain on the underside of the lid prior to assembly. Oh, well.
    The biggest pain in the kiester was getting the felt/foam insert done. It isn't perfect, but good enough. I tried several different methods, including a liquid foam but didn't get the results I was looking for. I settled on using 3 layers of 3/8" EVA foam with the gun cut out through two layers, the magazine cutout through 1 layer. The felt on the bottom of the cutouts was cut oversize and glued between layers. The sides of the cutouts was glued, then the covering was glued over and cutout once in place.




  • Re: Ok, yeah, one is a pen, but the other 2 aren't...

    Nice work @buddystacy !
  • Re: Safety question - table saw slicing hardwood blocks

    I bought a new bandsaw specifically to do this type of cut. I was always a bit nervous resawing on the table saw, even though I've taken every safety measure I could think of doing. It does get nerve wracking as the thickness decreases. The method @Ted Berg mentioned is probably the safest way on the table saw - leaving all of the final cuts until all of the table saw work was complete (leaving as much thickness as possible to keep the piece stable).
    The bandsaw (Laguna 14BX with a Resaw King blade) really makes the resawing effort simpler, faster and safer. It also leaves more of the board intact (IIRC, the kerf is .038").